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Stainless Steel

Best for: Almost any food that needs frying, browning, or searing. Because it’s ovenproof, stainless is also a good choice for foods that you start on the stovetop and then move to the oven to finish, like thick pork chops.

The details: Nitahara says that 95 percent of the pans used in the CIA’s teaching kitchens are stainless steel because they can take a lot of punishment. “The only time we don’t use them is on egg day, when we use nonstick,” he says. He adds that the shiny surface of a stainless pan makes it easy to see whether your food is browning.

In CR’s tests of stainless steel pans, we measure heating evenness by cooking pancakes, and we gauge how evenly a pan sautés by cooking potatoes until they’re tender. We also conduct a cleaning test to see how easy it is to remove cooked-on food. You’d think that all stainless pans would be about the same to clean, but our tests show that some require a lot more scrubbing than others.

Here are two recommended stainless steel pans from CR’s tests.

As the name implies, the frying pan works best at frying, except for deep frying. It’s perfect for stir-frying, searing meat, and shallow frying since it can handle intense heat while allowing steam to escape quickly.

Since there is no coating to worry about damaging, untreated stainless steel pans are a more durable option than non-stick pans. However, they are not naturally non-stick, so burnt-on food can be a pain to remove; therefore, they may not be the best option for cooking delicate foods. Stainless steel pans tolerate much higher temperatures and are great for browning and searing foods like meats and vegetables.